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Regev Elya

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Following The Path of Illumination: Dan Brown’s Angels & Demons Trail in Rome and Vatican

I am writing this piece from a nice little restaurant in London, enjoying a Mexican burrito, guacamole and a delicious Cappuccino. I have in fact just came from Rome and the Vatican, after having fulfilled a little dream that I had – following the path of illumination from the famous Angels and Demons masterpiece of Dan Brown, a book that I’ve read in the cold nights of our bicycle journey in Sweden.

Dan Brown's Angels & Demons
Reading Angels & Demons by my tent aside a typical Swedish lake.

The Path of Illumination

“From Santi’s earthly tomb with demon’s hole, ‘Cross Rome the mystic elements unfold.

The path of light is laid, the sacred test, Let angels guide you on your lofty quest.”

I had tried to look for information over the specific spots of the trail, but couldn’t find any organized how-to, and hence this post. I managed to do it in one day, walking my feet from place to place. I recommend you to do the same, you’ll see a lot of places on the go, even though it’s not easy if you’re a couch potato.

* Spoiler Warning *

Fist Step: The Pantheon

The first stop in the storyline. Langdon comes to the Pantheon, mistakenly thinking it to be the first altar of science due to the first line of the poem “From Santi’s earthly tomb with demon’s hole”. Robert and Vittoria arrive and act as newlywed couple, trying to look for the assassin. Santi, of course, is Raphael Santi, the 16th-century renaissance painter buried inside the church.

Vittoria then notices a sign indicating that Raphael was not placed inside the Pantheon until the 17th century, way after the Path of Illumination was actually laid. They then find out that Raphael designed an “earthly tomb” inside the church of Santa Maria del Popolo, which is the next spot we’re going to.

The Pantheon
The Pantheon.

First Altar of Science: Church of Santa Maria del Popolo (EARTH)

“The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo stood out like a misplaced battleship, askew at the base of a hill on the southeast corner of the piazza.”

You’ll find this church inside the famous Piazza del Popolo. Inside the church, look for Chigi Chapel, which is the first altar of science, and where the first cardinal murder takes place in the book. The cardinal is found dead waist-buried, throat stuffed with earth, with the EARTH ambigram seared on his chest.

Inside the Chigi Chapel, there are the statues of Habakkuk and the angel, pointing the way and guiding Robert Langdon down the path of illumination. The statues were made by Bernini, but unfortunately I didn’t get to see them as the site was covered with nylon due to restoration stuff. Hope it’ll be finished soon.

Santa Maria del Popolo
Church of Santa Maria del Popolo

Second Altar of Science: Saint Peter’s Square (AIR)

“Crossing the open expanse of St.Peter’s square he sensed Bernini’s sprawling piazza having the exact effect the artist had been commissioned to create – that of humbling all those who entered.”

Next altar of science is St. Peter’s Square, home to the largest Catholic church in the entire world, which you’ll visit later on. The second cardinal was found dead in the square itself, lying by a fountain with his ribs punctured (“air escaping his ribs”) with the “AIR” ambigram seared on his chest. Langdon thought the man to be a drunk homeless, noticing his mistake only when a girl screams and points to the cardinal.

a fountain in Saint Peter's Square
One of the fountains in Saint Peter’s Square

Third Altar of Science: Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria (FIRE)

“..a woman inflamed by passion’s fire..”

This place was very tough to find, and it seems to be well off the beaten path for Rome tourists. Even the vast majority of locals and tourist information officers didn’t know where the place is, and only Google Maps mixed with the help of a religious priest helped me found the church. However, excitement it was when I reached it.

Inside the church you’ll want to look for Ecstasy of St. Teresa, a tribute to the fundamental element ‘Fire’. It is located on the left side of the church, in “Cornaro Chapel”, and is considered by many to be an almost-pornographic statue and is probably the most unfit piece of art to be placed in a church ever.

Inside the church. the cardinal is found hung in mid-air, arms tied to the cables that usually hold lamps, with the church pews on fire beneath him, slowly burning him alive, with the ‘FIRE’ ambigram seared on his chest.

Santa Maria della Vittoria
The not-so-easy-to-find entrace to Santa Maria della Vittoria.
Santa Maria della Vittoria
See the cables hanging? The church is full of them.
Ecstasy of Santa Teresa
Ecstasy of Santa Teresa. If you’ll get closer, you’ll see the expression of a woman ‘having deep pleasure’.

Fourth Altar of Science: Fountain of Four Rivers, Piazza Navona (WATER)

“A flawless tribute to water, Bernini’s fountain glorified the four major rivers, one of his most celebrated sculptures. Everyone who came to Rome went to see it”.

Piazza Navona is where the last cardinal murder takes place, right in the Fountain of Four Rivers. In the book, Langdon arrives early to the fountain and surprises the assassin that arrives with his van. The assassin then kicks the chains-bound cardinal from his truck into the fountain and goes to fight Langdon who fakes drowning after using a bubbles pump to breath inside the fountain. He is too late to save the cardinal, and starts crying.

Langdon then looks at the dove atop the obelisk, which points to the next spot – the Illuminati Lair, a place that Langdon finds unbelievable to exist. The movie storyline was a bit different, and the cardinal was actually saved, telling Langdon where he was being held hostage – Castel St. Angelo.

In the fountain you’ll see four male figures that symbolize the four important rivers of the old world, one of each continent – America (Rio della Plata), Africa (Nile), Asia (Ganges) and Europe (Danube).

Fountain of Four Rivers
Fountain of Four Rivers, Piazza Navona.

The Illuminati Lair: Castel St. Angelo and Ill Passetto

Astonished, Robert Langdon then goes to Castel Saint’ Angelo, the last place he could have think of to be the mythical Illuminati Lair. This castle was the meeting spot of the Illuminati, and is connected to the Vatican through a secret passage – “Ill Passetto”.

Robert finds Vittoria inside the castle and fights the assassin for the third time, and with the help of Vittoria, manages to win the fight (finally). They then flee through the secret passage to the Vatican to stop the anti-matter canister from detonating.

Ill Passetto and Castel St. Angelo
Castel St. Angelo. The left wall is the secret passage ‘Ill Passetto’, connecting the Vatican and the castle.
Castel Saint Angelo
Castel Saint Angelo.
Ill Passetto
Ill Passetto. That’s how the passage looks from the outside. Just like a regular wall.

Final Stop: Sistine Chapel and Saint Peter’s Church

The Capella Sistina (Sistine Chapel) is absolutely stunning. I can’t recall if the place plays an actual step in the path itself (I think it is), but visit it anyway. It’s a must-see, and is right by the church of Saint peter (below).

St. Peter’s Church (We’ll call it the Church of Illumination) is absolutely breathtaking, even to a complete non-religious person like me. You’ll see the somewhat-clowny-looking Swiss Guards outside, and the majestic St. Peter tomb inside, the same place where the anti-matter canister was hidden in the storyline.

Sistine Chapel
Sistine Chapel.
Saint Peter's Church
Saint Peter’s Church (Saint Peter’s Square)

That’s it! If you’ll notice – the places form a cross in the map. It’s around 20km of a walk, so drink a lot (no need to carry bottles, there are plenty of public drinkable fountains on the way).

A,B,C and D indicates the first four altars of science. Castel St. Angelo is somewhere between B and D, and will lead you back all the way to B (St. Peter’s Square and Church) through the passage.


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Comments

  1. Asha

    November 9, 2013

    Amazing! Currently reading the book, definitely going to follow this path and book a trip to Rome! Thanks for showing us your journey :)

    Reply
    • Goodluck

      January 30, 2016

      I love your comment, though am reading, I don’t have what it take to maje the trip.

      Reply
  2. PIUS micheal

    December 27, 2013

    wow!! this is amazingly unbelievable… currently reading the book and can’t help it but glue to it. Dan brown is out of this world!

    Reply
  3. Anthony

    March 12, 2014

    Hu,
    I have a question, did you do this tour by yourself or with a group? I am going to do a separate tour of the Vatican and was curious if its overkill. I heard that the bulk of time is at the Sistine chapel and st peters square. thanks for responding back

    Reply
  4. J.H.

    June 4, 2014

    Wow!~ I’ve been reading this book with our book club members, and
    what you’ve collected is the best so far!!! Thanks a lot.

    Reply
  5. Jill

    August 20, 2014

    Brilliant, just what I was looking for. Off to Rome next week for our Wedding anniversary and as a big Dan Brown fan cannot wait to follow the path to Illumination. Need to have a quick re read and watch the movie before next week !!!! Thanks Jill

    Reply
  6. Sarah

    September 21, 2014

    Hey , am so hlad i found people that share my passion , am writing this now from a cafe next to sanata maria della vitoria after visiting the third alter of science , i still gave one alter to go :) santa maria de popolo is still under construction but i managed to take a photo of the statue with some effort , at st peter’s they had frikin chairs and barriers blocking the way to west pontie yet with some jumping and sneaking i took a faint photo of it abd i could see it :) tganks btw for all your help and direction along the way and goigle maps is my best friend in the qorld right now :)

    Reply
  7. Apoorva

    December 31, 2014

    This was very interesting. I have read the book and I’m looking forward to my chance of visiting the altars of science. I love this things and very much interested in them. I would be glad if u keep me posted on such things. Thanks.

    Reply
  8. steven

    March 17, 2015

    Interesting contribution to my quest for spiritual truth…

    Reply
  9. james

    May 25, 2015

    currently reading the book, now on FIRE”…its a master piece..ingenious piece of writing..am glued to it.

    Reply
  10. musembi steve

    May 27, 2015

    am just about to finish reading this book, its soo intresting… Langdon and Vittoria, very bright fellows

    Reply
  11. Neha

    June 23, 2015

    Amazingly summarized.. i was awed by the book and wish to visit rome to see it that ways..this page summarizes it so well

    Reply
  12. Bipasha

    July 16, 2015

    Nice! I’m headed there in a couple of weeks. It’s my second trip to Rome & plan to do the sights I missed last time :)

    Reply
  13. Suzanne

    July 29, 2015

    Thank you for all of your help!
    I was able to enter chigi chapel and take pictures. Email me above if you want them.

    Reply
  14. Ankita

    February 11, 2016

    Simply WOW…

    Reply
  15. Hiba

    September 26, 2016

    Thank you so much! This has been my dream for so long. Will be on my way to Rome from London in a couple of weeks and can’t wait to do this!

    Reply
  16. Ed A

    February 4, 2017

    Thank you so much for this. Couldn’t find an easier guide to follow anywhere and the map is brilliant!

    Reply
  17. Oli

    June 11, 2018

    I followed the path. Not in exact the same order as in the book, but i managed to see the altars of science.
    Amazing! All of them.
    I loved the book.

    Reply
  18. kishan s.

    July 9, 2018

    Do you need a visa to travel to the holy see . I am Indian hope I need one and can you see st.peters tomb?
    p.s. your blog is awesome btw.

    Reply

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